Van Sipma Jewelers

2011 Ridge Rd. Homewood, IL 60430
708/798-2232

American Gem Society: The Power of Love


The century opened with woman, demure and decorative, fragile and revered, well established upon her pedestal. The jewelry matched her idealized status...pretty, feminine, sentimental. Symbols of love, hearts, crowns and flowers followed her from the previous century. So too did the memorial ring. Portrait rings carried the loved one's likeness, executed in exquisite detail. Hidden in lockets, brooches and rings were locks of hair, lovers' or children's, which were tenderly cherished.

But alongside this delicate and appealing jewelry of sentiment, jewelry had an important role as a status symbol in nineteenth-century society. The industrial revolution made money for many. The successful businessman showed off his newly acquired wealth in public by loading his wife with jewelry.


Queen Victoria painted by Franz Xavier Winterhalter on her wedding day. "I wore a satin gown with a very deep flounce of Honiton lace, imitation of old. I wore my Turkish diamond necklace and earrings, and Albert's beautiful sapphire brooch," recorded Queen Victoria in her journal on Monday, February 10, 1840.
Diamonds became increasingly sought after. In 1870 supply met demand with the great discovery of diamond mines on the African continent. At a stroke, the status symbol of the diamond became accessible to a far wider public. For more and more young couples a diamond engagement ring, usually a solitaire or a combination of several smaller stones, was first choice.

By this time it was established that a bride could expect two rings: a gem-set engagement ring and the actual wedding ring which, in Victorian times, was no more than a slim gold band. Trade catalogues of the time show the immense variety of designs available, some for as little as £ 2. There are solitaires, half hoops, double or single clusters, fan, panel, navette, cross over or 2-part designs such as "Toi et Moi." The brilliant cut was dominant. Peruzzi, a Venetian cutter, is attributed with inventing the first version of this 58 facet cut; but only in the nineteenth century was the brillance and power of the diamond fully revealed.

American Gem Society: The Power of Love

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